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Sicily and Italy south of Naples : 2 weeks for a discovery


Bryaxis Hecatee

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Hi everyone,

 

Once more I call on your knowledges to plan for my coming trip to southern Italy. I will land at Trapani, western Sicily, on the 20 of october and have two weeks to travel (until the 4th of november) and no return airport defined yet, so it could be Napoli, Rome, or some place in the deep south. The goal is of course to see mainly roman and greek remains and that does includes, amongst other, Selinunte, Agrigento, Siracusa, Toarmina, ...

 

Any ideas, recommendations, or suggestions ?

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I have yet to visit Sicily, but some of the sites should be fairly obvious choices (like the large temples etc). Can we count on a photo album? :)

 

Southern Italy however. I've been to Metaponto and Taranto and, well, both are nice sites but not really worth the drive compared to Paestum (which is a must if you haven't been there). The Taranto museum is great thou!

 

There are some minor sites that might interest you as well: Vaglio di Basilicata is nice if you happen to pass by (but don't go there for the site) as it is one of few pre-roman non greek sanctuaries in the area - the largest one found in Lucania actually . There is also Rionero in Vultur with a large roman villa, but I don't think that it would be terribly tourist friendly. So just if you pass by.

 

I would probably have kept to Sicily, the Regio-Calabria area and then continued to Paestum, perhaps spend a day at Baia and then fly out from Naples.

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Of course you will have many new pictures albums by the end of the trip ! (did you enjoy the Bulgarian ones ?).

 

Paestum and Velia I did already visit during my 2009 Napoli tour, as I did for the Baia area (which offered me very nice memories). I take note of the other references, especially Tarento and Metaponto. I've been told Bari's airport could be a good point to fly back to Brussels, it would be perfect indeed if I go toward Tarento.

 

As I begin to see things, I'd land at Trapani, go to Palermo, monreale, segesta, selinunte, agrigento, maybe piazza armerina, gela, siracusa, catania, taormina, messina, reggio di calabria. From then, either go to Crotone, metaponto, tarento, bari or go toward the Napoli area with one or two steps in the middle.

 

I'll check what my guide books say about those cities and then, refine the list, and check public transportations in the area (since I still don't have any driving licence. Unless someone wants to come with me and drive ? :P )

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IMG_2348.jpeg.2441ea5d4f0c9c7f77843c2de78dd231.jpeg

If you are going to the Reggio Calabria area, be sure to see the famous Greek Riace bronzes:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riace_Bronzes

 

These bronzes are housed at the National Museum of Reggio Calabria. I've never been there, but they must be spactacular.

 

Addendum: It appears these stunning statues are undergoing restoration and study. They may not be on display again till late 2012. I recommend checking ahead of time.

 

Edited by guy
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Thanks Maladict for those tips. I think that the part of the trip on the mainland may well be cut to minimum if public transports do not allow me to go fast enough in Sicily, and I could take the plane back home from one of the Sicilian airport despite the higher cost... I'll look for a driver like I had in Bulgaria, could be worth it too.

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A great source for Sicily travel info is the local expert vagabonda in http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g187886-i343-Sicily.html such as whether a particular rural bus route is reliable or not. I wish i took their advice about favoring buses over unreliable trains there, although i did enjoy a very long walk to an archeo site which they advised me against.

 

What do you mean you are limited by no car license... since when are northern Italian rules respected in Sicily? Heck, just rent and pilot a helicopter... or maybe a Vespa anyway :) Anyway you can benefit by locals ignoring the anti terrorist rules against no unlocked free wifi.

 

The Norman mosaics are amazing... for them and other museums be prepared for multiple attempted visits... they will be unexpectedly closed at any given time. In Palermo avoid the gritty main streets in favor of the colorful meandering alleys which are more pedestrian friendly. View satellite photos of the place for hidden parks and villas. The botanical and English gardens are well known gems.

 

Guzzle fresh squeezed blood orange juice and rose petal gelato. On the boot i only visited that armpit Bari - unfortunately not Lecce. I would be tempted to return via night ferry Palermo to Naples with its infinite wealth of Roman sites vs tired Greek ones in Sicily.... mmm, I had the best risotto in my life on that cheap ferry. You should enjoy this trip

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  • 1 month later...

So, I finally decided on my itinerary :

 

I just have to finish deciding on what I'll do when in Rome : i did indeed decide to go there directly from Messine, in the night train, and to spend 4 days in the city to visit mostly places which are outside of Rome : Tivoli and Ostia for sure, and possibly Praeneste or Cerveteri and Tarquinia. Does anyone have other recomendations, or any counsel for how to go there from Rome ? (and in Sicily I know I'll miss Palermo, it shall be for a later city trip, but I have to be at Gela of friday morning, where I'll meet my driver for 3 days in the center and south-east of the island).

 

Date Activit

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Your schedule is nuts as usual so I won't try to talk you out of it :)

 

Buses to Cerveteri leave from Lepanto metro station, to Palestrina from Anagnina.

I can't remember the buses to Tivoli and Tarquinia. Tarquinia was a real pain to get to, the others were fine.

 

Other suggestions: Veii (take a bus to Isola Farnese), Sutri (buses leave from Saxa Rubra).

I probably wouldn't choose them over your ideas, though.

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I can't remember the buses to Tivoli.

 

There are convenient trains leaving at regular intervals too, but I can't remember which one.

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There is a well known way to do hadrians villa together with tivoli that i can dig up if needed. You take the subway to a major bus hub way to the north. From there get all onward tix and look for the lighted signs for departure gate and time for a bus that goes within maybe 7 blocks of hadrians. Learn the landmarks to look for to get off, and how to walk onward. Often you are reccomended a series of two busses to get closer, but that invites trouble or noshow.

 

When you enter hadrians complex, i would circulate clockwise, but be sure to not miss the museum if it closes early. I went ccw and saw the spacious restful areas first, then couldnt appreciate the cluttered complex stuff at the end due to burnout. Well, i had a terrible flu at the time.

 

There is a minor bus stop a couple blocks to the right of gate that can take you to tivoli. After a long wait i found it was being bypassed and walked to the main road bus stop, not where i came from, but on the direct aproach for tivoli. If you only seek the villa d'este and gardens, that is much lower priority on your time than hadrians.

 

I cant remember why the train didnt look best for returning, but there is a fast bus. For easier shot at seating, join on the stop before rather than after the villa stop. And get off one stop early before the main terminal when most others get off early too... you will see a new major subway stop or endpoint there.

 

Oh, i might spend your last sunday there walking the sites of appian way if you havent already. An annoying thing is they delay opening the appian gates to the quintillus complex til late, so go to the racetrack place which closes early. Also be careful about your last monday when so many sites close. If you end up with a slack day in rome, maybe get off at naples for a day on your return from sicily... there is always more to do there. Trains in sicily can be highly erratic... i remember seeing mine listing at 30 minutes, no HOURS late, all trains thrown into chaos due to ferry strike.

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